Home Projects & Repair

Tools Needed:

• Hammer
• Nail Setter
• Circular or Table Saw
• Measuring Tape
• Square
• Putty Knife
• Paint Brush
• Pliers

Supplies Needed

• 1- 36×60″ Backboard
• 168″ of 1×6 Pine
• 72″ of 1×4″ Pine
• 1 – 2×4
• Wood Glue
• Nails (with a pin head)
• Wood Screws
• 2 doubled ended screws (dowel screws?)
• Spackle Paste
• Various sandpaper
• ~1 pint of paint

We started this project out by deciding to build out headboard out of Pine. We chose Pine because we were going to paint over it anyways and it was in our price range. For the back board we used a 60″ by 36″ pre-made board of smaller Pine boards that were glued together.

The first step was to measure the length of the board. There were slight variations in the length at the top and the bottom. We marked the length for the top and bottom of our border on the 1×6 Pine board using a measuring tape to measure the length. After which we used a square to draw a line across the board along which we could follow when cutting the board. For this project we only had a circular saw available; however, if given the choice a table or miter saw would be much better, they make straight cuts much easier.

Once the top and bottom borders were cut we lightly sanded the ends of the wood where it had been cut to get rid of the rough edges from the saw. Then we applied glue to the the cut pieces of wood. Once the glue was applied we placed the board onto the backboard and carefully nailed each end into place. After the ends were nailed down, and we made sure that it was flush with the ends we placed a few nails along the length of the board for additional support.

While nailed we were very careful not the drive the nails completely flush with the board, we wanted to avoid putting any dents into the board with our hammer. To finish driving the nails we use a nail setter. A nail setter allows you to actually drive the head of the nail down below the surface of the board so that it can no longer be seen. Simply put the tip of the nail setter on the nail and hit the top with a hammer. Using a nail setter allows you to avoid putting dents into the wood and also hides the nails.

After the top and bottom borders were in place we measured the two ends for the side borders. Once again we had to be careful since our backboard was not exactly square. We repeated the process again of measuring, cutting, sanding, making sure the board fit, gluing, nailing, and setting the nail.

At this point the headboard was beginning to take form and all that remained were the 3 center strips of wood. In order to make sure the spacing was all the same we measured the length of the headboard from inner border to inner border and made a mark on the headboard right in the center. The other two strips are a little trickier. To find their position place a small piece of 1×4 on the center line, and measure the distance from the inside of the outer border to the edge of the center strip. From there find the middle and make a mark. If you mark the middle of the border and the center line you will soon realize that they are not evenly spaced, the width of the center board needs to be accounted for. From here we measured the length each strip needed to be and repeated the cutting process for the 1×4.

At this point everything was assembled and was ready to be prepped for painting. The first step was to apply the spackle paste. Using a putty knife we liberally filled in the nail holes and the joints between the boards. Filling in the joints will make the headboard look like it was made out of one solid piece of wood.

Once the spackle paste had a chance to dry we sanded the entire headboard with a rough sandpaper, and then sanded again with a finer sandpaper. After sanding we cleaned up all of the dust and cleaned of the headboard with a damp cloth. The painting process takes a long time and patience should be exercised. Paint one side at a time, allowing each side time to dry before flipping it over to paint the other side. Several coats of paint will likely be needed. In between coats of paint use a fine sandpaper to smooth out the surface and remove any brush strokes. Any aberrations in the surface will only look bigger with more coats of paint.

Once the headboard was completely painted and dry it was time to put some legs on it. For this we determined how high we wanted the bed to be and took a measurement. We cut two equal lengths from the 2×4 using this measurement. In the center on one end of each 2×4 we drilled a hole into the board just slightly smaller than our dowel screws. A corresponding hole was drilled into the bottom of the headboard on each end. The dowel screws were then screwed into the headboard using a pair of pliers and then the 2×4 legs were screwed on. For additional support two pieces of the 1×6 pine were attached to the legs and the headboard using the wood screws. Once the legs were attached we painted them.

After letting the paint dry we had a finished headboard.

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Small nail or screw holes, and cracks up to the size of about a dime in sheetrock or plaster can be patched using lightweight spackling compound. You simply press a small amount of it into the hole, then smooth off the area by scraping over it with the flat edge of a putty knife, or anything with a flat edge.

However, if the hole is larger, such as a fist or foot hole, it will take a little bit more work.

A sheetrock saw makes this job easier. They look like keyhole saws but have a sharp point that lets you punch into the sheetrock to get the cut started. If you don’t have a sheetrock saw, a utility knife will work as well, however, it will not be quite as easy.

1. Get a piece of sheetrock [also called drywall or wallboard] a few inches bigger than the hole (scraps from construction site, maybe?). The edges of sheetrock are thinner than the main area of the sheet so, stay a few inches away from the edge. Draw a circle just larger than the hole and, cut it out. It doesn’t have to be a perfect circle. Lay this patch piece over the hole and trace the outline on the wall–that is, draw around it. Cut along this outline making a hole in the wall roughly the same size and shape as the patch.
2. Find, cut, or make a piece of wood that is narrow enough to go in the hole and about 3-4″ longer than the diameter of the hole. Thickness doesn’t matter much so long as you can get it in the hole but, thinner is usually easier to work with. A piece of 1/4″ plywood is perfect but, a wide range of things will work, including a couple of thicknesses of corrugated cardboard glued together. (If the hole is in the ceiling the backer needs to be stiffer than for a wall so don’t use the cardboard trick.) This is called the backer piece.
3. Insert the backer into the hole such that it extends on each side of the hole and attach it to the inside of the wall.
4. To hold the backer while you’re attaching it to the wall, drill a small hole in its center. Tie a string to a nail, stick or something and thread the other end through the hole. Now, after you put the backer in place, you can pull on the string to hold it in place against the inside of the wall while the glue sets or while running down the screws. Then cut the string and let the nail fall inside the wall. Another way to do this is to put a long screw where the string hole is and use the screw as a handle to hold the backer in place with your fingers or pliers. Remove the screw, of course, when your done.
5. Some common ways to attach the backer are:
   • A Hot Glue Gun
   • Caulk
   • Construction Adhesive
   • White Glue
   • Screw it in place by running screws through the wall.
6. Cold glues require you wait up to a day before finishing. The most common method is screws. If you use screws use flathead screws and tighten them so they just dimple into the sheetrock but, don’t tighten them until they cut the paper around the screw head. If you use an electric drill/driver set the screwdriver clutch to the lowest setting and work up to the right torque.
7. After the backer is in place, attach the patch to it using one of the same methods — thereby filling the hole except for the seam/edges. Now, using a putty knife press a glob of joint mud or spackling against the wall, forcing it into the seam (and the screw dimples if you used screws). Then scrape off the excess making a smooth surface. Allow this to dry, about a day if you are using mud or an hour or so if you are using spackling. Mud will shrink as it dries so you will probably have to apply a second layer. Once it has dried use a sanding block or a damp sponge to make smooth. Joint mud takes longer than spackling, but it is much more forgiving, you can use a damp sponge to remove it and do it over again if you have to.
8. If you have some PVA (polyvinyl acetate) primer handy use it, otherwise just paint.
9. If the wall is stippled (textured) you will want to match the stippling.
   For advice on this you will want to look around a little more on the internet.
10. Now you can fix that hole in your sheetrock. Look around some more to find out how to fix or repair all of the other holes you have.

A note of caution. This method works well for a repair that is in the central area of a sheet of sheetrock, such that the patch is attached to the surrounding sheetrock and not attached to studding. When the patch is attached to studding, it and the sheet it abuts can move independently, so you’re safer to tape and float the seam to resist cracking.

Another method is to do the repair much the same way but, make a square patch, then tape and float the seams.

Screwdrivers: Pick up a few flat blade screwdrivers and two phillips head drivers. Get a couple small enough to replace the wall plates around light switches, and a couple that are large enough for your bigger jobs. Cheap screwdrivers and wrenches may be the worst cheap tools there are. Try to resist using your good screwdrivers as pry-bars or chisels, use your cheap set for this.

Hammer:

Measuring Tape: At 25 foot long measuring tape is a must have.

Utility or box knife You will want a utility knife with a retractable blade, a solid housing, and in a bright color. These knifes are nice for cutting and trimming things that are too awkward for a saw. You can also remove the blade and use it as a razor blade to clean stickers or paint off of glass.

12″ flat-jaw, arc-joint plier: Most people know these by the brand name Channelocks. While useful for getting a firm grip on various objects they will scar up whatever you use them on. If you use them on a decorative object (anything that looks nice) they will most likely leave unsightly marks on it.

7″ Slip-Joint Pliers: Easy to use pliers which quickly adjust to various sizes.

10-12″ Crescent Wrench: Also known as an adjustable wrench, these will not leave unsightly marks on what you use them on.

Skill Saw: While not necessarily a starter tool, it does come in handy. A skill saw is extremely useful for getting quick clean cuts. Most are also adjustable so that you can get precision angle cuts also.

Hacksaw: Hacksaws are used for cutting metal and pipe, but can be used for just about anything.

Sheetrock Saw: Also known as a sheetrock knife these saws make repairing holes in the wall a thousand times easier. The sharp point allows you to quickly cut into the sheetrock, while the large teeth cut cleanly and quickly.

Electric Drill: A good drill is a definate must. You will once again want a good quality drill. There are cordless drills that are increasing in popularity, however, I usually prefer my corded drill since I know that it will always be ready.

Drill bits: Pick up a small set which will have all of your smaller bits. Generally you can find a small box set with about a dozen or so bits varying in size from 1/16″ to a 1/4″. Also pick up a few larger bits if you plan on doing any framing or running wire.

Wire Stripper and Cutter: If you are planning on doing any kind of electrical work, then this is a must have. Don’t waste time stripping wires with a pocket knife when this simple tool will do it quickly and easily.

Flashlight: There are two types of flashlights that people prefer. Some like the large durable flashlight, while others prefer a small flashlight that can easily fit in their pocket. I personally prefer a small lightweight flashlight, as I can easily illuminate small places inside of the wall and behind things easily.

Shovel: A shovel will probably be one of your most used tools if you do a lot of yard work. Look for a good quality shovel, oftentimes a cheaper shovel will fall apart on you. If you will be moving a lot of dirt or gravel you will want one with a square blade. If you are digging look for a spade shaped blade. For gardening you may want to get a smaller shovel to make it easier to work between plants

Tool Carrier: Now that you have a collection of tools, you need a way to organize your tools. For the occasional do it yourself home repair person a tool carrier might be the most appropriate. However, if you are doing a roofing project, you may prefer a tool belt. There is a nice article here about how to choose between a tool belt and a tool carrier.